US CosmeceuTechs CEO, Joe Lewis, is the chemist behind Piori Skincare and Prevage MD and he’s teamed up with Elizabeth Arden to create a clinicial skincare range, Elizabeth Arden Pro.
You’ve got your own skincare lines, why team up with Elizabeth Arden?
Because of its reach. It’s a retail brand, Elizabeth Arden created the first spa brand, she was always about innovation but after she dies they began to focus on fragrance, so this is going back to its roots.
What’s different about this range?
There’s a very simple focus on what really makes a difference; SPF, antioxidants and DNA enzymes are the basis of good skincare, they’re the must-haves. Retinoids and alpha hydroxyl acids (AHAs) moisturize, exfoliate and increase cell turnover, these are the need to haves. Peptides and growth factors stimulate the skin, these are nice-to-haves. There’s no magic bullet, you can’t find a solution outside that.
Why do AHAs and retinoids trump peptides?
Because they have been the basis of dermatology for 30 years, they are the only things that really work. The jury is still out on peptides and growth factors because they are new. That’s not to say they don’t work, but they don’t have the long term results that AHA and retinoids do.
What does AHAs do?
They plump skin from the inside out, it’s a reason why they are so effective. The produce an increase in epidermal volume and also exfoliate the skin. It’s one of a few clinically proven ingredients that leaves a lasting physical different on your skin.
What about Vitamin A?
It increases cellular mitosis, which is cell renewal. Vitamin A and AHAs complement each other, you can use separate products but we use an AHA retinoid conjugate, it has an acid base and the equivalent of 0.05 per cent retinol and the time release formula means there is less irritation.
What are you trying to do with this line?
Simplify skincare. Women are wasting all this time and money and energy on anti ageing. The market is worth $4.3billion globally and there are so many ingredients, fads and hype but it’s all about marketing and fear. Stick with the basics and choose proven, clinically tested ingredients to give results.
If you could only recommend one product, what would it be?
Triple Action Protector with SPF, it contains antioxidants, DNA enzymes and sunscreen. In the US the brand is known as Elizabeth Ardren RX and this product has an SPF 50+ rating but Australian laws are very complicated so we couldn’t comply, but it does contain that level of sun protection.
This story was first published in Shop Smart, The Sunday Telegraph, on October 4, 2014